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BHUTAN DIARY 3



2014 - 2015

 Map + Plan  

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   Diary 1  2  3  
 

From Diary 2, we remain in Paro.  Pema & Bishnu Lal

10/1. Pema & Bishnu Lal pick me up at the resort, and we head up a narrow road, south of Paro. It offers some great views over the little city, the big river and the airport. Then rice patches and terraces takes over. Soon after, it is the pines that dominates the sides of this one lane road. Later, it is Picea which dominates and finally Abies.
At first, the parts being in shadow all day are covered in a few centimetres snow. Then is get more intense, and Bishnu Lal have to drive real careful with the cars slicks. This road challenges the one from the other days in views, both to the valley below and the mountains to come. We do several stops, and I desperately try to capture the magnificent area. In some areas, branches from the Picea is placed on the road fro traction, and likely, we meet none on the two wheel-tracked ice road.
It evolves into a push-push safari several times, and just five kilometres before the pass; Chelela, we have to give in. There are no way this car on these tires can go further. I get to drive a bit, but it is not posible. We only lack around 250 vertical meters to top of the 3800 meter pass, but more snow have fallen here, and the middle of the road is too high for our car. I will not be able to see the Haa Valley:
"The pristine and picturesque Haa valley is located about three hours west of Paro through the Chele-La pass which is located at a height of about 3800 meters. From here, there is a great view to Bhutan's second highest and best known peaks: Jichu Drake and Mount Jumolhari, and with luck and little humidity: A glimpse of Mount Kunchenchunga; the third highest mountain in the world.
Down to the town of Haa. The Haa valley till recently was closed off for tourists and even today people of the valley live in a manner not very dissimilar from a time long ago. The Haa valley is one of the most isolated and least populous districts of the country. There are many small temples and monasteries in the district with the most important being the Lhakhang Karpo( White Temple) and the Lhakhang Nagpo ( Black Temple)". "
I'll be back!" - I hope.

We drive slowly down, both for safety and for photos. I do several walks, and here are surprisingly many interesting plants. Here are some bulbs, but I only find the fruits stands. Several forms for conifers like Taxum and the above mentioned, some Berberisas, several Rhododendron species, ferns, lichen and leaf-trees I don't recognises.
A few places, the 7600 meter tall Jomolhari can be seen between the trees. Another place, it is the nunnery Gila-goempa which catches the eyes, way up on a steep cliff.
We start with dinner in Paro, in a local restaurant. I even get my own mug of butter-tea, which is rather tasty. Around two spoonfuls of butter for each mug and some salt.
I need to find a souvenir, and nowhere is better than Paro. The main street might look like a museum, but it is one (rather short) line of tourist shops - and I have them all by my self.
It turns out to be some of a challenge. I have decided on a typical Bhutan dragon - Bhutan is called Land of the Thunder Dragon, and their flag is that dragon. But while I find small dolphins, sea-turtles, camels, elephants and even a dromedary, there are no dragons. A few big ones but none fit for my display. I finally find one in silver, sitting on a black opal, and I make a mental mark for the shop.

Paro is actually a tiny collection of restaurants and shops, surrounded by a larger number of houses, scatted loosely around the valley. I try the single back-street, but that does not help.
I pick-up Pema & Bishnu Lal at the restaurant, and they are going to show me the local fortress; Dzongkhag, which is half way up to the ridge. At the top, it has a huge lookout tower. It was turned into a museum, but was damaged by the last earthshake.
It is once again a massive building with several courtyards and inner structures. All covered in the finest art.  Besides from a pair on monks, we have it all to our self. From here, there are a great view over most of the valley and the surrounding hills. 
The days shortened program is over, and I ask to be dropped off at the centre of town. They are keen to drive me home, but it is only three, and I am not that eager to get home and work already.

I find the shop with the rather expensive silver dragon on black opal, and first now, I figure I have been carrying mainly Nepalese rupees. I have a few Indian rupees, which are valid here, but not enough. It turns out their grandmother are going to Nepal, probably Limbini, and they will accept my Nepal rupees.
I have already walked the few hundred meters main street, but I remembered two cafés, right next to each other. Neither have any of the else so great winter sun, but their cakes lures me in anyway. Quite good, but no clue to the price.
Then I start the long walk home. It is along the river, and I follow it close. In some areas, several creeks divide a swampy area, and I walk here. After an hour, I'm home, but continues up the hillside a bit longer. At the resort, I ask for a cup of tea, and one of the girls go and get the German and his guides. One of the is real well educated, and real interesting to talk with. He is the guide on orchid-collections tours, and he have a deep insight in the major religions. When it gets cold, we divide, and I'm back at the computer with 300 new photos and a new day's experiences. Finishing the photos from day three, and making a rough slideshow: A strange mix. The the diary for today and yesterday's photos.
A short brake for supper with the German, then back to try to catch up with the experiences. Around midnight, I have to admit: I'm still one day behind with the photos. The photos of the day is in this slideshow.
While I back-up, I realises to my big surprise; I have taken more than 32GB of photos. That causes a problem with my back-up system, based of 32 GB USB sticks. That might cause a problem, considering I only been on the road for half the planed two months!

11/1 I get up early to sort out the back-up problems, and catch up with yesterdays photos. My breakfast is slightly late, but that only means Pema & Bishnu Lal get some too, and I get to finish the back-ups.
We head west out of town, and cross the river to get to the road to the Tigers Nest;
Taktsang Monastery (elev. 3100). It leads into the ancient pine and Rhododendron forest on the monks' zig-zagging trail.
At first, the climb is a bit nippy, but when the sun break though over the distant ridge, it stat to feel great. It is fun to see how fast the sun moves across the field - around a meter per second. Here are some old water praying mills and tables for souvenirs. The trail is bone-dry mud, but it must be tricky during the rainy season. It is mainly pine trees, and a few broad-leaved, which are pretty covered in ferns. We are in the right altitude for orchids, but perhaps on the wrong side of the mountain? Though, the lichen forms long robes. Some of the cracks in the cliff are filled with the small clay stupas.
After a hour of rather steep walking, we reach a government run restaurant, and get some tea and biscuits. From here, there are great view to the monastery, some higher up, on a vertical wall. For me, it is rather easy to see the tigers face, and I also get a clear image of its claws, despite none else have seen them. When I point them out, they say it is clear. The Buddhists does not see the face of a tiger, they see the face of Guru DorjiDrolo, which is rather demon-like.
Half a hour additional walking bring us to another viewing platform, above the golden roofs of temples. A small path clings to the mountainside and crosses the gorge in front of a partly frozen waterfall, which ends in a big pile of snow.
Then we finally reach Taktsang Monastery, also known as Tiger's Nest. Hanging precariously and magically from a rather steep cliff, the Taktshang monastery is a monument of genuine pride for the Bhutanese nation.
Its history is deeply associated with the visit of Guru Padmasambhava, the revered Indian saint, who came to Bhutan in the 8th century AD. The cave was named Taktshang after Guru Rinpoche flew into the cave from KurtoeSingyeDzong in eastern  Bhutan, while riding on a tigress, which actually was his wife, who had transformed her self. When he landed in the cave, he took the wrathful form of Guru DorjiDrolo who is regarded as one of the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche to decimate the demons.
The monastery was built in 1692 by Gyalse Tenzin Rabgaye, who is said to be one of the reincarnations of Guru Rinpoche. The Monastery consists of four main temples along with their residences that are constructed along the rock ledge. There are eight caves in total, out of which four are relatively easy accessed. The monastery was ravaged by fire twice, first in 1951 and later in 1998, which nearly destroyed the monastery completely. The government then undertook a comprehensive reconstruction, and it is now back in pristine shape.
We deposit our smartphones and camera, and start walking form one magnificent temple to another - on socks. Then we enters the Tiger's Nest, a narrow and rather difficult cave to access. Some places are a just 30 centimetre crack, others steep descents on some pieces of wood. One crack leads out to a natural balcony on the vertical cliff.
Safe out, we leave the place. I would have loved the sun to reach the other side, but that will take another three hours. I just have to make a lot of tests on settings, and hope one of the hundred photos will be good. The frozen waterfall is reached by the sun, and the ice falls down.
On our way down, we stop at the restaurant to have lunch - without meat of cause. A chipmunk dines on the bird's feeding board, and the birds waits in the bushes, right in front of me. Many have told me, the visit at the Tiger's Nest was their biggest experience in Bhutan. I do not agree at all! The mountains, the Dzongs, the houses and the people are way bigger experiences. Then again; I might have experienced quite some more than the average tourist.
I am a bit puzzled over that half of the few western tourists we meet on our way down, is riding on small horses. I would think that was a abomination to Buddhism. But that is of cause the only way these fat Americans can manage to see the monastery.
The few open souvenir stands does not have more than a few dragons, and none as small, as I am looking for.
A group of older Royal Enfield motorcycles are lined up at the parking lot, and a cow check each one out.

The day should have ended here, and  Pema & Bishnu should just drive me the fifteen minutes to the airport tomorrow morning. I know they live in Thimphu, and ask them to go home to their families now. I can get a taxi to the airport in the morning for €5 - I thought. Then they want to show me a Dzong, which was destroyed by fire after a battle with the Himalayans. We drive through some villages with old houses and smiling faces, enjoying the sun.
Drugyel Dzong is a majestic fortress, way up on a a mountain top. The walls are pretty well preserved, and we walk around on the top of them. From here, there are a great view to the waste rice terraces to one side, and Bhutan's tales mountain; Jomolhari to the other.

Half way back to my resort, the oldest temple in Bhutan is found; Kichu Lhakhang. The oldest chamber of it, originates from the seventh century, the other buildings from around 1600. A massive pine stands in the yard, and the different temples are magnificent. The floor is made of giant boards, which have been polished thought the years. The walls are completely covered in delicate paintings and the alters and niches behind, occupied with big brass statues. The biggest is six meters high - and I'm not aloud to make a single photo...
It is four o'clock, and not only the day, but my Bhutan adventure has come to an end. I am fare from ready to leave, and Bangladesh does not really draw that much. Well, except the warmth. I spend the evening making the last slideshow, although my server is having a day off, and I can't upload it. I have after all, only taken 2000 photos in these intense six days. Today's photos goes into The last adventure day.
Dining is a bit dull without Max. I'm alone in the hotel with a skeleton staff of six - all hiding in the warm kitchen. The food is delicious; Beans in cheese, pasta in tomatosauce, fried eggplant, red rice and fried fish. I an normally not keen on fish, but for once, it was served without any bones, and tasted great!

12/1. Pema told me the flight was 11.20 and I should be in the airport at 9;20, but in my papers it say 13.15. I wrote Druk Air last evening, but so fare, I have not herd from them. I ask the receptionist to call Druk Air, and she say I have to be at the airport at nine. While I have my breakfast just before eight, the taxi driver is ready to get me to the airport, and I get a rather fast exit from the resort.
At the airport, they say I can sit and wait until one; the time in my papers is correct. I feel a bit stupid, spending half a day in a first class lounge, when I could have seen more of this magnificent country. At least, this lounge is the second warmest place in Bhutan, only my room at the resort is warmer. I make pages about the botanical gardens I have seen, straighten up my data, add photos to my caudiciform site, streamline my back-up program and get bored in general.
THE BEST 90 PHOTOS are fare from as good as I had expected. I must confess; I was fare from able to capture the amassing spirit and nature of Bhutan, as I had hoped - but I did experience it!

The price for this fantastic adventure is in total 10.500 DKK = €1.400. Expensive, but worth it for sure! It has to be mentioned; I did fly in from nearby Nepal and continues to nearby Bangladesh, and I already had insurance.

BHUTAN EXPENSES: DKK Euro
Flight from Nepal 1.400 187
Hotels   Inc 0
Transport   100 13
Entre i.e.   Inc. 0
Gear   0 0
Visa   9.000 1.200
Insurance   0 0
Food i.e.   0 0
    10.500 1.400

 Time to leave for Bangladesh.

                                          Diary 1  2  3