From Diary 1, I head
through the central part, then to the north-eastern corner of Lesotho and
finis off down in the remote south-east.
19/12 A perfect night's sleep,
and when I wake up, most of the other campers are gone. The plan is to see
the Katse Botanical Garden nearby, and I doubt they open
this early. The area is not that appealing; eaten-down grass and small patches of
farmland. I finish up with tent and breakfast, then go
for a walk anyway. Here are a few
Boophane disticha with leaves and a parasitic Convulvaceae.
Despite it is not nine o'clock yet, it feels like the sun is
almost vertical. Within a hour, you can't tell the north
by the sun. Then
it is time to make a back-up photos - which I ought to do every
evening. While it runs, I tag the rest of
yesterdays pictures.
Realising how many photos I can't
delete, I make yet another
slideshow. Now, I just need some good internet
connection.
Ten to nine, and I head for the botanical garden. On the
way, I spot what turns out to be a nursing dassie. Funny
little rabbit-like creatures, related to elephants!
The Katse Alpine Botanical Garden dates back
to 1995, when they build the dam. Plants were rescued
and relocated here. Since then, they have started a
collection of Lesotho plants. I meet the daily leader,
who is passionate. We agree to talk later, and I do the
paths in the 18 hectare garden. It is situated on a
slope towards the lake, and is a mix of the natural
occurring grass habitat and beds with groups of plants.
Here are several of the names I have been missing, and
many plants I have not seen - yet.
Their main concern it
the Spiral Aloe; Aloe polyphylla, the national flower.
Despite the early hours, it is getting real hot. Due to
the watering, here are numerous species of birds. Bright
orange weavers, magnificent blue sun-birds (Africa's
hummingbird) and many more.
After I have seen at least most of the garden, I meet up
with the boss. He tells me about the garden and which
difficulties they are fighting. I am able to come up
with some solutions, but not all. I see their
seed-collection, their nursery and several other parts,
while we talk. Then he show me some of his fantastic
photos of the plants I can't find. Mainly the orchids are
not really flowering this year, due to the missing rain.
His pictures show flowering orchids in 25-35 centimetre
grass. I can only find grass with the same length as
on a
golf green - or green for that matter. I had hoped for a hint to where to see the
Spiral Aloe in the wild, but it is only found in so
remote areas - the rest is sold on the local markets.
After three hours, I get restless, and leave my email
address for further inquiries. Right outside, I meet two
young South Africans, I know from a camp. Small world.
The next sight is more or less the road to the 3090
meter high MafikaLisui Pass, on the way to the
north-eastern corner of the country. A long time, the
road follow the huge Katse Lake's shore. One of the only
interesting plants is the small euphorbia, which here
forms a sphere. The hills are more green than earlier,
but still grasses down to a average rug.
At the 2510 meter Nkaobee Pass, the views are fantastic.
A bit further
down
on the other side, I find some awesome, green stones,
mixed with white crystals. Where the road is cut into
the hill - which it seem to be all the time - one can
see the 15-20 centimetre soil on top of the sandstones.
It start to drizzle a bit, as the road leads even
higher. A new road-sigh, warning about gazelles seems a bit
optimistic, but a national park is found at the top.
Another sign warns about ice and snow, but unlikely this
time of year. Here, the hills are practically green, but
still grassed to a green, all the way to the park.
Another stop reveal some interesting alpine plants. One
is the tinniest heather I've ever seen. The entire plant
is less than three centimetres, but it is flowering
nicely.
The drizzle gain strength, and the next stop is in the
company of some huge rain drops. The wind picks up too,
and I have to turn on the heat, when I return to the car.
Then I spot some real interesting plants, and run
in-between the drops - rather unsuccessful. The raincoat
might protect me against the water, but not the rather
intense lightning. And the photos lack light for sure.
When I reach the MafikaLisui Pass at 3090 meters
height, it is raining
cat&dogs. The view is astonishing: A enormous valley and
other mountains, the lover parts covered in sun. I spot
some interesting plants from the car, but have no
intention of giving them a closer inspection in the
heavy rain.
I passed some signs, offering beds in the village of Ha Lejone, sixteen
kilometres back. I will head on
to morrow, but I
hope for better weather in this pass. They
lodges seems to be closed, until I reach a entire holiday
village. Here, the cook and receptionist watch football,
while the ubiquitous 4GS watchmen are at each their post
(Even the botanical garden had two, but only one
employee today. Weekdays, they are three or four). I
guess here are room for hundreds of guests in huts,
houses, rooms and luxurious cabins, but I got it all to
my self.
They offer a small house for 300 LSL. Overpriced, but
not much to choose from, and I don't feel like
challenging the tents waterproofnes today, especially
not in this high
altitude. My room is too depressing, and I start working
in the bar, where the boys are watching football. I get
a pot of tea, and they can watch football.
Half pass five, the weather improves - at least down
here. I hope for some better weather in the heights to
morrow, not only for MafikaLisui Pass, but also the next
two passes. At least, there are only 165 photos from the day,
and the major part are from the botanical garden.
Downside is; what do I do, when I'm through them, and
the posh place have no internet???
I make some
additional pages for my Caudiciform site, delete some
more Lesotho photos and enjoy some excellent Marinated
Lesotho Lamb Chops. More tea, more work on the internet
site of mine. The rain continues, although light. The
boys ask, if I'm going to have breakfast. I did see the
English with bacon and all for 70 LSL, and was tempted,
but I'm not cruel enough to force them up that early on
a Sunday morning, to feed me. At
nine, I have even done the back-up, and I head home - by
car.
The area is that big, I wouldn't even consider to
walk in a sunny day. My house is at the lakeside, but
that is not the attraction to me: The warm shower and
cosy bed are. 20/12 By
accidence, I get a look at my self in the body-sized mirror - and
get quite a chock! I am aware; I not one of the fattest, but I didn't
realise I was that skinny! It turns out to be a real magic-mirror,
easy demonstrated by turning my computer around. It is same size,
both sides one way, and 1:2 the other. Guess fat South Africans love
it?
At half pass six, I sneak out the huge holiday village, only
disturbing two 4GS men. One get the key, the other open the gate and
check me out. The first stint is back to the MafikaLisui Pass once
again. To day, the weather
is perfect, and I find some interesting
plants around the top. Some areas are clearly the home of some
rodents. The grass is only millimetres high, and here are holes all
over the place.
The next site was planned to be Tlaeeng Pass, but I have not seen a
gas-tank the last 860 kilometres, and I guess seeking a bit closer
to the capital and the larger cities surrounding it, would be
considered a plan. Further more, I don't get to drive the same way
back. New target;
Moteng Pass. I drive through a National Reserve, which have a "BO" and a
"G" in its name, and the grass is significantly longer.
Within long, I spot an animal on the open field. It is a Secretary
Bird - a long-legged eagle, praying on snakes and other reptilians.
Then I start seeing new plants, quite some familiar
from the photos
which were shown to me at the botanical garden. A few birds tweets,
and I see a thrush bird.
As I do several stops down hill, more and more plants turns up. Many
are still in the shadow of the mountains, and it is like the sun
only exposes around eight - three hours delayed. Here are Impatiens,
Asteraceaes, Ericaceae, Oxalis and much more. I try not to make more
pictures of those I have see previous - unless they are even more
pretty.
The city - or at least large village - of
Pitseng have several supermarkets and a gas station. The last one
have no diesel, but recommend one, ten kilometres further down the
road. I try the supermarkets to see if I can find some special softdrinks
- to re-use the bottles with large openings and drinking-dispenser.
It seems like all the shop owners are Chinese (like in so many other
poor countries around the world). I
find the bottles in the last shop, along with a electrical plug. It seems like at
least South Africa and Lesotho are quite consistent with their huge
British
plugs.
The forth supermarket is the posh Pep, but it seems to be closed,
perhaps due to the fact it is Sunday? I get a real bad picture of
two boys with their steel-cable cars. I have seen them before, but I
hate when they approach me, and say "give me money".
From Pitseng, the landscape flattens, and red farm fields dominates.
Here are lots of houses along the road, all the way up to the almost
white mountains. The next town have a filing station WITH diesel,
and I buy 91,8 litre. The tuck have managed almost 10 km/l in these
steep mountains, not bad, considered the weight. A well-dressed man
tells me, he is going to drive along with me - why not?
Pretty soon, the road meets the Masuru-Oxbow road in the big city of
Hlotse, then comes Bhuta Bhute and Kala. Both are rather large
cities, but I don't stop.
One does not have to go out of the major cities to see cows and
sheep. They are almost as numerous within the cities.
The landscape is real dry and not much vegetation is left in piece.
A few probes reveals nothing interesting, except a
flowering Aloe.
The police have some security stops from time to time, but they are
smiling, and just curious about where I am from.
A sign show off to
Liphofung Rock Shelter, another to Liphofung Cave Cultural and
Historic Site. It might
not be interesting, but the area might. A long, concrete road leads
down to a dry river. A big visitor center, and a single employee,
who don't understand English. Another turns up from the canyon, just as boiling as
the two South African white tourists. She turns out to be the
perfect guide: After she got my 30 LSL, she ask, if I mind going by
my self?
The path leads down towards the river, passing several signs,
telling me, it is mandatory to have a guide. At the bottom, the
river have first cut it self down through the soft rock, then
meandered. That have created some fifteen meter deep caves. In some
places, there are ancient paintings of spear hunting and dancing.
The convenient lack of guide let me explore the surroundings, and
here are some interesting plants and a grumpy lizard. I get back to
the office without breaking a sweat at all.
The soil further down the road have the most wicked color. Real rich
orange-red. The houses are more scars now, and it turns a bit
greener. The road towards Moteng Pass is surprisingly flat - the
first 65 kilometers. Then it raises significantly the last five, and
the truck need to gear down into first, several times. The road
serpentines wild, and the flora turn Alpine again. A few new ones,
but just as many herds man as always. They are a bit annoying,
asking all kind of
questions and asking for cigarettes and money.
Worse it the youngest boys, not more than five or so. Here, they
want their photo taken, and are just happy to see it on the screen.
Before I reach the pass, a viewing area make the perfect spot for a
cup of tea. Somehow, I manages to drink it, without being addressed
by anyone.
I reach Moteng Pass at the
expected 2820 meters. Here, the red heather dominates along with
some herbs the sheep don't like. The vegetation is rather tall, but
the grass and alike has gone. Another lizard escapes, but is way to
curious to stay inside. The next time I stop, some grayish herb
dominates. The panoramas are,
as always; astonishing - and
impossible to capture.
The "Rocket-flower" is fund in the high altitude. Here, it is not a
single plant for each hundred meters; it is a cluster of hundred
meters! While I try to capture that,
a blue sunbird passes bye -
just as impossible to get a dissent photo of!
The next pass it the 3222 meter high Mahlasela Pass. Behind it, the
huge and posh Afriski Resort lies, in its own valley. The advertises
with the highest bar in Africa, and why not? It is only two, and I
don't need to get to Tlaeeng Pass
today. In a mater of fact, I am so full of impressions, I'm gladly
saving a pass or two for tomorrow.
It is indeed a fancy place with everything from a huge, modern bar
in light wood, paintball, canoe, skiing (in winter) 4x4, mountain
bike and much, much more. I settle for a cup of tea and a chocolate cake.
Then it occurs to me: They might have Wi-Fi? And yes they do. I
upload the pages I've been working on lately, check the news,
up-load photos to former friends at Facebook and do some banking.
It is four o'clock before I leave, and it is tempting to overnight
here. But it is not right! Way too posh for me and the truck. There
must be another place within the 70 kilometres to the next pass. A
huge diamond mine it its own society. Brand modern buildings, huge
trucks and enormous artificial hills.
As I walk around to botanize the next time, an huge bird of pray
circles me several times. The fifth time, it must admit: I am still
breathing.
Somehow, I manages to pass Tlaeng Pass at 3255 metres, making photos
of the sign, but not reflection over it. At least, I do take some
pictures of the astonishing view. The botanizing reveals no any new
species, just the cold wind.
A sign show to a lodge, 1,6 km. That sounds
perfect, here at five. The next sign show off the road, and I start
a steep decent on a rough gravelroad. Here is nothing, but the
summer quarter for the herds-men and their bomas. After fifteen
kilometres (and given up several times), I meet a bit of settlement.
And then the first building that is not a small rondawel. Same
style, but bigger.
It is six o'clock, and I had hoped for something looking a bit more
alive. The clouds are gathering, and distant thunder closing in. I
cross the gate, and look around. Despite it look so deserted, the
beds are made in one of the large rondawels, and huge gas-containers
stands behind the huts. Some boys tell me; the caretaker is on his
way, and I start finding my cooking gear.
It is 240 LSL for a single person, but the drizzle is a good
salesman. I gather my stuff from the truck, while it start to
rain, then hail. The thunder and lightning is all over the place,
and I'm fund of my rondawel! It have a nice bathroom and a little
kitchen.
Then it turns out; they have no water. Later, it turns out
the tiny generator won't start. On top of that, the caretaker
complains about how hungry he is, and I offer him dinner. Rice with
can-meat-bowls, soya and salt. Apparently, he likes it a lot! He
leaves with the remaining rice and a filled plate, and I start
working. I hope he return with my plate, pot and spoon.
The thunderstorm continues to eight, and just as the computer runs
out of battery, it stops. Suddenly, a weird sound and some flapping
occurs right behind me. It is a poor sparrow, which apparently have
been trapped in the rondawel. Now it is fainted, and when I pick it
up, it weight next to nothing. I place it outside the window, and it
dies free at least.
I continue working in the car, and it is not as
cold as I feared. Just at is started to rain, I gathered some
firewood from the outside braais, and placed it in my fireplace. I
figure it would be easy to ignite on the gas stove.
Somehow, someone have been able to take additionally 300+ photos
with my camera yet again. It is almost midnight before I'm finish.
21/12 The pot, plate and spoon is
outside my door, when I wake up. The caretaker returns with a
receipt and a guestbook - most unexpected! It is only a bit passed
six, when I drive off. The road, which was a challenging the way down, is
really a obstacle the way up. The rain have spoiled it in many parts, and
the slippery surface on steep assents, causes for speed. That does
the exposed boulders not. A couple of well-dressed women want a
lift, and I can't say no.
Several times, I have to give it yet one more approach on the most
slippery and tricky parts, but my hitch-hikers take it nice. The low
sun is perfect for photos, but I'm afraid; I have seen it all by now.
We finally reach a village after 45 kilometres, and the women get
off. This is their "big city", although it is mainly made up by
tinplates and mud. Unlike them; I find it not worth a second look.
The further south I go, the more barren and dry it seems to be. Senqu
River however, it swollen with the rain from last night. The
brownish river look like chocolate milk. A single dassie flees, but
else here are no wildlife. Well, a lot of locos and other
grasshoppers along with a few lizards and dung beetles.
Mothotlong is a bigger village with several
supermarkets and official offices. My toothbrush broke this morning,
and I need a second 12V plug. Both the computer, the GPS and my
camera need charging. Further more, I would like to be able to
charge without the ignition being on, and it would be neat to be
able to use the secondary battery for this.
A chop-shop have the 12V plug, and a TV repair-shop the core and
tin-welding stuff. It actually works!
The plan was to drive slowly towards Sani Pass, and explore the
botany along the road. But here are none! The grass is eaten to the
roots. Further down south, it turns a bit greener, but still with a
significantly lack of interesting vegetation. Then the assent starts.
Sign warn about 1:9 and then 1:6. I use second and third gear -
unless I'm forced down in first. Despite I do several stops, I don't
manages to find any new plants. I had heard Sani
Pass should be so fantastic - but it is fantastic disappointing.
Here, yesterday's rain have also fallen, but to no use for me.
The views are general smooth hills with few exposed rocks.
The highest point is, accordantly to the sign; 3240 meters. Here is
so dry and barren! I do a few walks, but the wind is so violent, it
almost throw me over, several times. The scenery is enormous. Endless
soft hills and a fantastic sky.
A bit further down on the other side, it begin to be more green. A swamp reveals a few
new plants, but not the abundance I was expecting. The day I have
set aside, was too much for sure. Sani is a river, way up here, and
it have a bit of water in it, from the nights rain. A small gathering of rondawels are fond along it, but I still don't get the fuss?
I reach the border control station at half pass eleven. It is, just
as the pass turned out, rather dull, but at least real fast. One
look at me, one stamp, "have a nice trip".
AND THEN! I turn a corner and pass a
small hill, and
the most amassing view I ever seen, reveals below me. It is like
overlooking the entire Africa! This is the Sani Pass everyone
have been talking about! There is only one natural thing to
do: Park the car, and start taking photos. The road is for 4x4 only,
and that make sense: It is extreme steep, real rough gravel and
washed away in some parts. Here are way more plants then on the
other side, and the few hundred kilometres one can see below, are
real lush green. I make ridicules many photos, and I don't care.
This is a once in an lifetime experience, and I'm here on the
perfect time of the perfect day. Sun in my neck, few white clouds
and Africa! A few other cars and a motorcycle make stops as well.
Unfortunately, making photos of it, is like observing the world
through a straw.
After I have adopted to the view, I start looking for plants as
well. First, it is the familiar ones, but soon, it is brand new
ones. I might make more stops than the others, but I also see more!
And none have as many photos as I!
Pretty soon, it is a whole new line of plants. I did not plan to
photo them, but these huge Asteraceae trees, Banksias and -
plants screams for it.
The road start to follow a stream, and I do a long walk along/in it.
Here are even orchids. The sun disappears, but at least is was on,
at
the peak. Two hours have gone between the border controls, but it
has been one of my best experiences ever! And I did it the right way
and
on the right time for sure.
Now I am at the South African border, and the
tour continues in South Africa
but only for a short time.
I have driven around 1700 kilometres and
taken just as many photos. A truly great tour in a mountainous and
dry country, with some nice habitants and great plants and animals.
Slideshows with Animals, Plants, People, 75 best photos and the tour
in general
LESOTHO EXPENSES |
|
1/6 of flight |
1.046 |
|
7 day 4x4 |
3.346 |
|
Food |
550 |
|
Hotels |
475 |
|
1/6 gadgets |
1.100 |
|
Diesel |
1.000 |
|
Entrees |
40 |
|
DKK |
7.557 |
€960 |
|