This is part four of my diary from the Bear Project. It all starts in Part 1. 25/10.
The bar/restaurant on the other side starts playing some religious
program around six - real loud! It is still on when we leave at
nine. Besides from that, we are having yet another perfect day with
sun. Seems like I might be able to avoid the rainy season after all.
I won't complain over having bought a rain poncho for nothing!
Today's walk is one of the beautiful ones: Sempre Verde; heading up the
slopes through forest, reaching the high grazing areas. We manages
to find Frida, and after a long and rather fast walk, we are back at
the main road for the twelve bus. I continues to Apuela to check
mails and up-load, but first I get two Pony Malta: Didn't get any
water on the tour today due to the earliness of the bus. Checkout
the Sunday market and get the one o'clock bus back to the bear hut.
Roomers about a overnight tour to the Paramo
makes me check my two sleeping bags. The little one claims it is
good for -2C while the large one say 8-12C. Guess the big one is
most correct! I would so much prefer to do it in one day; avoiding
being packed as a mule and the freezing and long night. Sara
leaves with the three bus, Angela is going to Cazarpamba for the
week, and things quiets down. Dinner is a improvising over lasagne,
and it have to wait to Julie and Henriette is back close to six. I
make two tomato sauces; one vegetarian - my first vegetarian dish
ever! Henriette make the béchamel sauce, and it is perfect! Meanwhile, Jenn and Darsey prepares a
banana/pineapple crumple, which I personally look forwards to! Dine
is finish at seven, bite later than I have thought and planned, but
it takes more than half an hour just to get the water boiling for
the pasta plates. Luckily, it is worth waiting for. I ought to make
lasagne more often, just buying the béchamel. I have to admit: I am way better taking photos
than to delete them! Spent the evening going through the selected
photos once again, and end up deleting 250. That is only ten
percent, and I guess there are still way to many. On the other hand:
It might just been a very giving tour, and my skills as a
photographer have improved: More motives, less bad images. Stops
at eleven, way over my bedtime! 26.
To day, we are ready for the bus at half pass eight, but it is just
on time at nine. That gives me some time to photo the insects along
the road, among them; a large
and very green fly. It is starting to be rare for me to find new
plants and animals. Jenn and Darsey do the Tabletuba with Alberto
while
Julie, Anna and I do the Cazarpamba, but an extended version. We get
a ride to the settlement, and continues over the high plateau. It is
a beautiful grassing land with cows and lamas. It is a magnificent
summer day with a light breeze and 33C.
The
view to the surrounding valleys are breathtaking, and the nature is
- even though manmade - amazing. We follows a small path witch are
accompanied by a dug creek. The Plumera-like fence poles are
overfilled with bromeliads, and many of the bushes in the living
fence are flowering to the benefit of various insects - and me. On the very ridge, which is vide, there are
some
square hills which I figure must be ancient grass pyramids. I have
seen some in other parts of Ecuador, and the appearance are pretty
alike. On top of that, the possession matches the compass. We find Frida a few times on this new addition
to the trail, and returns. Not a single bear on the long walk home,
where we arrival at one. As so many times before, the summer day
ends at two, when the clods comes rolling in. Evening in company with a new book while the
others watch some volleyball game in Pucará. It is, as most other
evenings; a bit to cold to be enjoyable on the porch - or any other
place for that matter. I would so much love a fireplace in the
house! 27.
Jenn,
Darsey and I sets off at
half pass seven to collect hair- and faces samples from a valley in
the middle of our usual area. Here should be several bears, of which
we only have a radio collar on Frida. The samples will be DNA tested
sometime in the future, and a more precise picture should reveal it
selves. We meet up with Alberto on the Cazarpamba trail,
follows it for some time, and head
into the farmers field. It is a little used trail called Lomaredonda
with a steep assent; an average of 45 degree. We are lucky with the
sun: It is hidden behind some low clouds, and the temperature is
durable for the climb. Just behind the farmers hut, a donkey and one
of the tiny horses are found. Then we passes through one enclosure
after an other with a few black and white milking cows and their
calves. The few remaining trees are covered with orchids and
bromeliads. After a couple of hours, we reaches the forest. The
assent continues through a dense vegetation with some bamboo areas
in. We are folowering a well keep track, which
continues to go up. We have been scanning for bears all the way -
without any luck - and at eleven, we find the first bear traces. We
collect around ten hairs form stems while we walk deeper and
deeper
into the forest and up the mountain. We reaches the peak at noon, and start the
descent on the other side. The temperature have gone down to
15C, but we are at 2950 mos .I have seen a few new plants and
insects when we
turn around at one. The walk back is easier, when we passes the
peak, although descents like this is tough on the knees. The temperature raises to 25C, but the sun
have gone for today. I would say we have been very lucky with the
weather, and it is the rainy season! We are back at the main road
little after three,
but have to walk all the way to the bear hut without a lift. Eight
hours of real challenging walking for ten hairs! Oh-yes; lets not forget the 250 photos, which
have to be sorted. 160 makes it through first rough sorting. 50 gets
re-framed, and then they are divided into the respective groups. After dinner, which -surprise -surprise - was
noodle/potato soup, I start packing for the Páramo tour. It have
finally succeeded me to arrange a one day tour. Unfortunately, I
will be going alone with Alberto, which means I have to carry the
radio and his lunch along with my warm cloths. I newer bothers
bringing lunch for my selves, just a slightly larger breakfast, and
I'm fine.
27. The half pass seven bus is on time,
and Alberto jumps on by his house. We drive a little more than an
hour towards Otavalo. When we are at the high pass, in 3000 mos, we
jumps off at the Páramo. It is a brilliant day for the tour: Bright sun, clear sky
and a slight breeze.
The
temperature have dropped to 17C, but that is fine for the steep
assent. We crawl over a gate and are soon in the
typical Páramo vegetation: Stiff, partly yellow grass. The first
part are mixed with some low scares bushes and other vegetation, but
only for half a kilometre or so. Some others have done the same tour
in the past, but always with a overnight in the high altitude.
Alberto is anxious to get back to his two kits in the hospital, and
I'm fine with walking fast, if just I get time to photo.
It is a steep climb, we are going from 3000 to 4350 mos, and there
are not many flat areas on the trail. Many small hills form large
hills that forms mountains. All look the same: Soft,
greenish-yellow, continuing to the sky. We are more or less
following a ridge, and the views to the sides and back down are
totally breath taking - or it might be the altitude. The air
contains only a quarter of the oxygen I'm use to, and I'm working
hard!
I find quite a lot interesting plants
underneath the grass, some with a significantly "alpine-look". I
have to remember to
enjoy
the gigantic views too; I can see for hundreds of kilometres!
Besides form the gigantic mountains, there are a large lake; Laguna
Cuicocha. We stop several times to scan for bears, but we
don't seem to be able to find any. Alberto do the scanning while I'm
on all four, searching for new plants. I only see a few butterflies,
and no other animals. At eleven, after only two short hours of
walking, we reaches the camp-site. I am slightly surprised; I have
thought it would have caused me way more effort to reach this high
altitude point, and more time!
I do a good search for plants and other interesting sights,
and
we start the descent. While Alberto walks real fast, I either lie on
my knees photoing, or I'm running. It is surprisingly easy to run,
even though I'm in over 4000 metres height. I'll bet my diving buddy
will be in less good shape than me, when we start diving in 14 days! We reaches the main road after 45 minutes, and
Alberto get to eat the lunch I have brought for him, before we are
picked up by a large truck. While we sit there, I see the (shadow)
of the first lizard/iguana I have seen on this tour. The clouds are
coming, and the tour back is in partly cloudy conditions, but with
some fantastic views of this unknown road. A slightly used Alberto
jumps off at home, I continues to Apuela, with the truck, to upload
diary and check mails.
Back
at the bear hut little to four, where Anna is alone. Jenn and Darsey
are on a camp-tour, Julia and Henriette have left for the rest of
their tour, Angela are still in Cazarpamba, and it is quiet! New
volunteers will come on Monday, until that, I'm the (only) one! I
claim Anna is having a real easy job as volunteer coordinator,
considered how coordinated I am by my selves! The 250 photos of the day are sorted (175
survived), and due to the really special habitat, they are given
their own section: Páramo Highlights,
Páramo Plants and
The Lot
(except plants). Somehow, this take all evening, but I am real glad
I got to go on the High Páramo! 29. Alberto wants to stay close to
home, so I do the Sempre Verde tour with him. I doubt we find any
bears, but it is a nice walk. Anna stay back at the bear hut with my
computer, working on her job applications. We starts at Albert's house, leaving some
posters, getting two
dogs. We all keep a good pace, and reach the end of the trail after
an hour and a half. No bears, but I do find some new, small flowers.
Armando passes bye - in about 3000 feats height - in a helicopter.
He have gotten it
sponsored, and now he tries to find the missing GPS collars
(he didn't).
The way back is downhill and faster,
especially when we hear an ambulance in the distance! (it was
Celica's daughter giving birth). We are down in
one hour, and I say goodbye to Alberto, who live round the corner.
There are no busses on this time of day, and I end up walking all
the way back to the bear hut; almost two hours, mainly uphill. That
means I finally get a picture of a farmers hut which have begun
growing. There are no one at the hut, and I decides I
have a well deserved lunch. A couple of reheated bread roles, one
with honey and peanut butter - which actually tastes all right, and
one with a fried egg. There have not been boiled water for drinking,
but besides from that, Cecilia's "job" are doing it selves without
her. This was the forth day in a row with a real demanding tour: I
will need to cut back on all this psychical challenges before I get
home! I sure hope the new trail; Ambuenola we are going to try tomorrow turns
out to be more easy. Should be from Pucará to Apuela, but by the
never used back-trail, leading fast down to the valley. At five, I torch some milk powder, water,
cream cheese, flower, pepper, vegetable bouillon and a dash of
oregano in on pot, some tuna in a frying-pan and some pasta in a pot
of boiling water. Served with fresh plucked lime fruits and parmesan
cheese, it end up quite a delicious dish. Evening spent with a book
in a hammock, although I might start packing. 30. Anna uses my computer in the early
morning, and I start packing. Have to make a small bag with my Quito
and Atlanta cloth and stuff. Due to the Wellingtons and cloth I have
bought here, the bag is starting to be full - and heavy! I
doubt I can keep it under 23 kg, but I bought my ticket two days
before Delta Airlines changed the amount of suitcases from two to
one, and I should get away with two bags. Then again; they have
altered my flight twice, and will probably claim it is a new ticket.
We finish our jobs, and I sets off at nine,
pass Pucará and down a small trail, leading down the valley. The
dog; Lucky, which came back last night, follows us. We pass the
fields of the local farmers, which turn steeper and steeper. At one
point, you simply can't see the button of the yucca field. It is
around 55 degree, and I can't figure how he get up again? The small path offers some breathtaking views
through the valley and down to the river. We do some scannings for
bears, but no luck. Instead, we enjoy the awesome nature between the
fields. Once, we passes through a ravine with giant spider webs on
the sides, spun between the skeleton-like roots. Other times,
we
are out in the open on a small ridge, and can see to Apuela and
Santa Rosa - well, kind of.
We reach the white river after a very long
descent, and find the path are folowering it. So do we. The nature
is quite different to what we else have seen on our trails. I have
only seen a few of the many butterflies this area hosts. Here are
also some new plants, and it is a really enjoyable area, so close to
the bear hut. A few small and very narrow hanging bridges
crosses the furious river, and after we have reached a ridge that
ends out in the river, we head back, and crosses by one of them. It
take some prevention to lure Lucky over - no wonder! On the other side, a gravel road follows
the river, all the way to Apuela. We are walking right underneath
the giant "face" and the
vertical
wall behind Apuela. We find a real flat snake, and agree it takes
not only stupidity but also patience to be road-killed around here! A small iguana runs into the bushes, but I
manages to get a blurry picture of it. The first lizard-like
creature I actually manages to shot! I have to admit; it is so much
easier to photo plants than reptiles and birds! Especially when I do
it in habitat, not cooled down, and in a box. We reaches Apuela little over eleven, and head
straight for the internet. I finish fast, and get a ride back to the
bear hut with a school truck. Haven't done it before, and will never
again: The buy some huge Fabaceae fruits, eat the cotton-like sweet
material around the big, black seed, and throw the seed at the girls
- or whatever they hits. I spent the nice afternoon getting a bit of
sun, fine-tuning my huge bag and reading. Anna and then the
Jenn and Darsey returns from their camping tour. They haven't been able to
find a bear either, but they have had a great tour out in the wild. We
start cooking the few things we have. Anna finds some yucca which
she first boils, then fries. I make some of my white sauce, chop
some wieners in slices and fries them. Same goes with some
vegetables and a pot of pasta completes the cause. Sorry to say it
Cecelia; We like our own food so much more than your noodle-potato
soup! While we are cooking, Ali; a re-cycled volunteer arrives, and
Anna won't be alone when we leave tomorrow morning. While the others go in to Pucará to play
volleyball, I sit in a hammock and read while I am enjoying the rather warm
evening. So fare, the rainy season have been good to the bear
project. How the future will be - can't really concern me. I'll be
in Quito the next two days, then Atlanta and the week after;
Indonesia. It is the week in Denmark that concerns me: The forecast
predicts 2-8 degrees, quite some rain and wind too! Not exactly what
I'm build for! 31. Jenn and Darsey leaves with the
seven bus while I take it easy and wait for the bus at nine. I'm not
really feeling well on the two and a half hour drive to Otavalo, and
try to sleep all the way. The last quarter is on sealed road, and
that works much better, and I decide to continue right away. Five
minutes to shift bus and visit the Banős, and I'm off again. It have started to rain, and the views are not
worth the effort, so I sleep again. Once again, it is a two and a
half hour ride, and then; I'm at the Grand Terminal Norte in
Quito, where the rain continues. I'm glad I don't have any plans to
play tourist in Quito - except going out to Mida del Mondo. Back in Quito,
I take a local bus to the Terminal Central, but then my
patience with public transport runs out. I might be able to save
three dollars by taking a trolley, a bus and then a taxi, but I
spent five dollars and take a taxi straight to the Hostel Secret
Garden, where I have a reservation.
The huge and heavy bag and the rain does it. Even though I still
don't speak Spanish, it is so easy due to the map I prepared from
home. I reach the hostel at three, and are meet by
the great Indian guy; Rafael. I get a real nice private room, and
two large mugs of their own grained coffee - the first real coffee
for six weeks! The rain still pores down, and I retire to my room to
write on the diary. The internet is down at the hostel, but after a
bit of tingling; I get to plan my visit in the US. Dinner at the roof restaurant, and then back
to the internet room to up-load photos. Somehow, I have missed it is
Halloween Eve, and most of the residents of the hostel turns up in
costumes. Real cosy evening in British/Australian/Irish company
along with Ecuadorian rum. 1. November. It is a greyish and rather
cold morning, and I decides there are nothing that important in
Quito, to drag me outside. I got plenty of work to do on my site, tagging
photos with contense and author, making slideshows and upload them.
Forgot to do the tagging last night, and it is all over again plus those I
didn't accomplice. It takes more than one day, due to the rather
slow internet connection, but I read and chat with other travellers
meanwhile. It is a surprisingly skinny library the hostel have: One
Japanese, one Greek and two Spanish books PLUS: One Danish I haven't
read! Dinner at the hostel again; fast, convenient and tasty.
Guess I could find it cheaper, but don't bother. Continues the
up-loading until midnight, and quit, although I still miss al the
photos from Toisán. 2. It seems to be a nice day, and I set
my plan in action: Go to Midta del Mondo to take a photo - after
breakfast. Some walking through town, then a but to a terminal and
an other out to the large and very touristed area - with very few
tourists.
I find the place I took a photo twelve years
ago, and change into shorts to get it again. Walk amount the
numerous souvenir shops and restaurants to find a small bear for
souvenir, but the only one I can find is pandas! Then I remember my hunt for guinea pig; Cuy.
There are actually a restaurant that offers it. Three times the
price on their other courses, but I figure it is now or never! After a bit of waiting, I get a whole grilled
animal with sauce, potatoes and salad. Unfortunately, the meat is
slightly tough, but the taste is great; something like rabbit,
porcupine and rat. There are not much meat on, especially when it is
not cooked enough. I have a chat with the cook, who tells me it have
been pre-cooked for 25 minutes. I suggest he do it for an hour next
time. Find a bus going back to Centrum, and head for
the cathedral. Sounds like someone is shouting my name; then again.
There is: Julie from the bear project. She is on her way for the
cathedral as well, and we joins. It was made in the 1859, but the
main construction I see if from around the thirties; made in
enforced concrete. For a catholic church, it is rather sparse
decorated inside the neoclassic walls. The real showcase is the many
and large colourful windows. Unfortunately, they are only restored
by gluing on some transparent glass over the holes. The concrete is
warn out as well. Several spear-formed decorations have fallen down,
and the enforcement iron are visible many places. There are catacombs below it, and the towers
can be claimed by thin metal ladders. It is rewarded with a
fantastic view of the city, spreading out more than ten kilometres
to both sides. Rain clouds roles in over the mountains, and soon; it
starts to rain. The towers closes, and we are head down town. I
being chilled, and head for my (former) hostel. Get there at five, and start working on diary,
pictures and mails. Dinner at 18.30 precise, and then a bit more
computer-time. A fast shower, and I'm off to the airport to fly to
Atlanta to spend a day. Step outside
the hostel at nine, and are picked up fast by the taxi driver who
must have been the inspiration for the French movie. We reach
140 km/h by zigzagging through the traffic in central Quito! The airport is efficient as well: I sit
checked, cleared, controlled and scanned at the gate quarter to ten.
Unfortunately, the last café have just closed, even though there
still are three airplanes this evening. On the positive side, the
internet is not only rather good, it is for free. I upload some more
photos while I wait. It have, all in
all, been a great holiday, and defiantly every dollar worth! The
scientific and conservation work have been less impressive than I
have thought, but the nature and the lovely and always smiling
locals makes up for that big time. DkK |