From the first part of Suriname in Diary 1, the adventure continues. 28. In an effort to investigate the south-western corner of the country, I set off on the Kabalebo road. The town is real quiet and almost empty this Sunday morning, and most traffic is made up by horse-trailers, going my way. They turn off near the airport, and I have the road to myself. As the other times, the road going out of Paramaribo is lined with houses and shops. I think I have seen 100 of the giant Chinese shops. Almost the only big modern buildings. The private homes are way more humble, although a few along this road is pretty nice. I stock some bananas and biscuits, as I don't expect to find any along the road. The first part is the sandy savannah with relative low vegetation. I follow a narrow trail, leading right through it. Here are several interesting plants. I have been looking for Drosera, and here I find some real small ones. Father Frog have build a pond for the kids, and he will take care of them, till they leave the water. Feeding them and make sure they have fresh water. The next little pond have a quite little freshwater turtle. Unfortunately, it is more patience than I, and I don't get a proper photo. After 50 kilometres, the sealing stops, and from here, it is a red clay/rock road with some nasty potholes. I had hoped for more asphalt, as the bad road prevents me from paying too much attention to the surroundings. One rock or pothole too much, and I'm out of car! It is clear to me, I won't make it the 360 kilometres into the jungle I had hoped. I hear a lot of birds, and just like when I ate breakfast on my porch, parrots are flying screaming bye. I drive on, and then I meet the rainforest. Or some of it. Other parts have been cleared long time ago, and now here are pines. Not doing that great though. The scattered humble huts continues along the road, and here are a few larger farms as well. One seem to have cows, some lumbering, and 100 kilometres out, I meet a huge citrus farm!
I
cross the mighty Saramacca river, and besides from a single little fishing
canoe, it is empty. Other, smaller rivers crosses the road all the time.
Most are the natural dark brown colour. After lunch, around halfway of the distance I had hoped for, I realises; The landscape does not really change much, and the roads conditions are too bad. I turn around, and look for entries to the jungle on the way back too. I find some bird-nest-ferns, and right over them; a group of noisy but illusive monkeys. This tour have not revealed quite as much as I had hoped for. One reason might be the lack of altitude in Suriname. The soil does change, so do the water within the first metres, but that is all. The small hills I passes yesterday did not really produce mush of a change, and today's flatness even less. I hope the coastal area will reveal some new biomers. Day 4: The road to (-wards) Kabalebo 29. I have decided to give the Baroness a day off - or is it myself? Anyway, I will be walking around in Paramaribo to see the town and the special interesting sights. I start with the old official buildings, right behind the hotel. I have photoed them before, but now the light is right.
Then I head down-town along the river to find the Witch's
Market; Maroon. Here is an interesting mix of medical herbs, skulls from odd
animals, murky
Some of the women are so camera-shy, and I get yelled at,
a few times. But the next group just laugh, and show me their entire
collection of oddities, while I photo. Here is not much light at all, and
despite the motives are awesome, my photos lack a lot.
Right
next to this huge hall of witchcraft is the more common market. It is in
another huge hall, and all the way around it. Here are smoked fish, shampoo,
shopping bags, weird crops, shrimps, hats, plenty of fish, the usual crops
like melons and bananas, dried fish in plastic bags, all kind of chilli,
dates, para-nuts, beauty items, used cell phones, raw aluminium kitchenware
and even pet shops.
I
have seen quite some guys with a tiny bird in a tiny cage. I'm not sure what
is
symbolises (bachelors?), but the birds are calm and seem to be used to be
walked. Some shops have numerous cages and small bags of grains for the
birds.
Here are a few nice looking Muslim butcher shops, nicely
cooled. One smaller hall have the bush-meat. I recognises deer, Common
Longnosed Armadillo; Dasypus novemcinctus, bush-pigs and then
there are all the more exotic stuff. Unfortunately, neither want me to make
a photo.
Upstairs
are the clothing and alike. Some sew on ancient machines, some have the most
colourful yarns, other numerous types of buttons in just as wild colours.
And zippers to go with it all. Here are all kind of cooking hardware and
other kind of tools, music, fishing nets and shops with a bit of everything
from combs to machetes.
I find a tiny restaurant serving tea - although I first
get a dish of food. Some locals, I understand clearly, others have strange mix of
Dutch and whatever. Pleasant enough, I get quite some way with English. I am
able to read quite some Dutch - mainly because it is spelled just like
Danish like "Dagblad", or German and English. But their pronunciation is
far-out!
I
head along the riverside, and look for a barbershop. Here are a lot of old,
wooding buildings and a few, more moderns ones. Common is; they cold do with
some maintains. Here are several slightly more posh streets, main with the
usual clothing (for women), phone shops and alike. No restaurants at all,
just some crappy fast-food without seating.
One stretch have mainly electrical and pluming equipment,
another the goldsmiths. None have remotely souvenirs - unless you like
something common like a cell-phone...
The town look generally worn-down, but
it maintain its exotic touch.
I
pass bye my hotel after noon, and grab a water, tea and egg-sandwich. It
cost half of what I pay for the tea I have with my supper. Then I head out
in the other direction. I have heard of a restaurant, and I find one (might
be another, but what are the odds?). On the other side of the street is a
large park, exclusively with huge palms. Here are a few epiphytes on their
stems; Orchids and bromeliads.
Here are a few, more healthy looking buildings, housing
the official Suriname offices. Some are rather new and fancy, others are the
colonial buildings, well maintained. I loop back in my quest for a barber.
Finally I find one, and have to wait a hour for them to finish the customer
they each had, when I enters. It is fun to see how they do the puffy African
hair. Clean shave around the face, colouring all over, puffing, trimming,
twisting (and again and again). One is getting dreadlocks-like things when I
enters - and when I leave.
I
return to my hotel just in time to get a mug of tea before the closes at
four. Then I start working, as I have a appointment for dinner with a
American man; Jerry and German girl; Xavi later. Working with the photos on my "private"
balcony is a bit tricky due to the evening sun. A new problem, never
occurred until now, as I use to work way later.
30. I have heard roomers about a minibus driver
spotting some Blue-and-Yellow Macaw; Ara ararauna along the coastal
road leading west, and as I further more would like to study this coastal biomer, I head that way. Again, it is s long drive to get
clear of
Paramaribo, and the traffic is surprisingly intense the first part. The
drivers are so polite and gentle. Those from the sides are let in
immediately, and others are aloud to cross right away. Then I
clear the city, and then there are a few grass fields with cows.
Then it turns into scatted small farms and houses,
growing vegetables and fruits in small gardens, chopped into the jungle. To
judge from their houses, it does not make a great income.
I have a real hard time getting into the wild, as it is
either swamp or fields with crops, or behind a big canal, following the road
on both sides. I passes some rivers, Coppenamerrivier being the fare
largest. Along the road, many sluices are found, and I guess this entire area
is below five metres. The canals aliening the road are lead out to the sea
often.
Despite
this is the coastal road, and my GPS map show blue water directly on one
side of the road, I don't see a glimpse. I just see the clay and canals,
which are so nicely overgrown by numerous floating plants. While I lies and
photo them, I hear Macaws! A second later, they fly right over me, the low
sun directly on them. Unfortunately, I fight to maintain balance and the
camera is stet to close-up, but I get a great view anyway. They do a few
loops, but up against the sun and further away.
Here are a pair of rather scatted villages, each with
their set of Chinese supermarkets. I try to find bananas at the small
private stalls, but end up with a rather expensive bunch at a supermarket.
And only one is ripe, and it is a cooking banana. I have passes some many
banana plants, but it is apparently not the right season.
I
stop at a larger canal in Bombay, and the locals warn me: Watch out for
sharks! A bit further out the road, I see some of the hanging bird nests I
had thought belonged to weavers. But it is a group of rather noisy starlings
that are all
over the place. Might just be steeling eggs?
As I'm getting closer to Guyana, the huts and houses get
closer. I have found a few trails, leading out to the "beach", and I try the
first. Here, a dike is being rebuild, but I get to pass the construction
site. A few wooden fishing boats are lying on the mud, while the crews are
fixing their nets.
Further
out the trail, the mangrove starts, and it is thick, sticky mud as far as I
can see. I see some large four-eyes; Anableps anableps, but
not close enough for proper photos. Here are quite some blue herons and even
a Red Ibis. Several other birds are walking on the flooded clay or sit in
the mangrove trees, and it seem like this disturbed habitat is actually
quite rich. The flora is a weird mix of succulents, beautiful flowering
annuals and mangrove trees.
I try the next access I have found to the "beach", but
despite is have been restored a year ago, it is not as rich in biodiversity.
I know the last bit of the road towards Guyana is mainly farmland, and there
are no easy access to the coast anyway. I turn around, and drive rather fast
towards Paramaribo.
I
have to stop a few times to investigate some large fruits on a Fabaceae, and
once, I spot a snake, crossing the road in front of me. I think it is a
Vinesnake; Oxybelis sp. I get a single photo, and despite I try to
slow it down, it vanish into the bushes like lightning.
I return the car, on the way into town, and take a taxi
the last five kilometres. A egg sandwich at the hotel's cafe and some early
work, as I have another dinner appointment with Xavi.
Day 6: The coastal road west
31. I check-out at the same time as
Xavi, and it
turns out; we both are on our way to French Guiana. I planned to take the
bus, but she can't have he large backpack with it, and have arranged a car.
It is ten times more expensive - but still rather cheap anyway, and I join
in. She is nice to have around, as she is fluent in English, Dutch and
French - among others.
We get to the small boats, but I figure we better find
the immigration to get checked out of Suriname. It is quick and smooth, and
one boat followed us - as the immigration is in the other end of town of
cause. Why have it at the harbour???
It is a short tour, and then we are in
French Guiana. That is another storry!
7/2. Coming back from French Guiana. The minibus in Guiana is almost on time, and despite we
are only two customers, I get shotgun, and we drive right away. When we pass my car-rental company,
the driver get a call; one more passenger. Back into the town where the
traffic have tighten up.
I get a ride right to immigration, which again is smooth,
as I'm the only one
using it. Some guys are offering a boat to the other
side for €20. I paid €3 to get here, and I'm going to pay three to get
back to Suriname. A 500 metres walk (back through the country I just
checked-out of), giving me a chance to warm-up after the
air-con in the car, and five minutes later, we set off towards Albina in
Suriname.
It feels a bit weird to walk around the port town,
looking for immigration. Three Frenchmen are struggling with the papers in
front of me, while I filled them out yesterday. When I get out, they are
negotiating the price of a taxi for Paramaribo. I get an offer of €60
(joining them), but I
paid less than €10 to get here, and I'm not paying more to get back.
I walk back to the harbour area, and Idi Amin's bigger
brother is controlling the cars. He find me one, with only one other
passenger, but we drive right away, me in the shotgun seat again. We have
passes the Frenchmen, who now is down to €50 a head. The turn my divers offer
on €15 down. They are engineers, and I guess you have to be that, to figure
them!
I return to Paramaribo from Guiana in the afternoon, and get a ride
right to my usual hotel. My booking was a bit late, and I get a four person
room. Compared to Guiana prises, it is still real cheap, and I like the
hotel. Due to the late arrival, I only make a tour around a newer part of
town.
While I'm at it, I get some better photos of the tiny
Fort Zeelandia and the presidential palace - along with some other old
buildings.
Near
the Palmpark, I first spot an almost fully grown Green Iguana, then a big
Varanus. I try to make pictures of the cacti, bromeliads and orchids on
the palm's stems, but they are a bit high and generally in the shadows. I
stop for a glass of fruit-juice, before I get back to the hotel. Supper at
the same restaurant at dusk, then home to work.
Day 7: Back in Paramaribo
8.
I spend the first half of the day at the
office. I have things like my own pay, tax and WAT which can't be neglected
too long. And to do them, my accounting have to be up-dated. Then I make
detailed plans for the next country, and program the GPS.
Then it is time to stretch my legs, and I head down-town.
A barbershop, some breakfast shopping, tiny glasses for dusty/liquid
souvenirs at the witch's market and more cash are on the list. I do a tour
around the central market and the witch's while I'm there. The bush-meat
shops are still camera-shy, and the rest, I have photos of.
Back at the hotel, I get the drive to the Guyana ferry
planed - at four in the morning! But here are only one ferry a day, and so
be it. Then it is out to find a sandwich - sound easy, but it is a
challenge. Well, I do find one: Steamed Chinese cabbage and raw Chinese
cabbage. Not a all time favourite!
Back to work some more at the office, and then at four;
I'm out of things to do (well, at least important- and interesting tasks).
That is a first on this tour. I try to relax, but realises; I haven't a clue
about, how to do that! I am pretty sure, I have seen all of the city, even
the remote and so uninteresting places. I can't even let it out on some
unfortunately fellow traveller, as none understand English.
A
few minutes after, I'm working on selected photos from
the entire tour and the really dull project of renaming a lot of photos from
Guiana, due to an error in the file-names.
9. As I have to get up a bit pass three in the
night, to be ready for my four o'clock bus, not much else is happening. I
have driven the entire road to the Guyana border three times, and her
are not anything new, especially as it is pitch black most of the way.
The last bit if farmland, and now I think I figure what
is going on. The Dutch have developed it all for rice, but without their
hydro-engineers, it does not really work. Then they have transformed into
cattle-land, but that didn't seem to work either; the barbwire fences are
here, but no animals.
Suriname have been an interesting stay, and I'm sure I
have seen everything possible by car. There are a lot of rainforest inland,
only accessible by canoe, but that is a completely different project - and I
sincerely doubt it will offer many new sights and species anyway. I have
taken 964 photos, and driven 1187 kilometres my own car. The price have been
reasonable, as I travelled over land: |