From
Diary 1 and the cosy company of the
brothers, I now continue down south alone. 19/4. After breakfast, I say goodbye to the brothers, as they will spend their last day in Bangkok. I take another tour in the city, and find a huge fresh produce market from the countryside. Fruit, rice, vegetables, some clothes and lots of fish and mussels. There are also frogs and dried giant water scorpion roasts. Actually had an agreement with the Romanian, and incidentally also one with the girls from Helsingborg, but instead, I head alone to Krabi by air-con bus. We drive through the amazing limestone hills for 4 hours. The tour costs 14 kroner and there are refreshments on the way. We drive through plantations with pineapple, rubber and other trees. Mangroves and rice fields, then the high dense primeval forest begins. We end up in a station town, 5 kilometres outside the old town. I take a moped taxi for 5 bucks, and end up in front of the desired Riverview Hotel - I think. I'm trotting somewhat around, because I can't make my hand-drawn map to work. Turns out there are 2 Riverviwe hotels in town! Takes on a long-tail mangrove trip. The other
passenger is a British ornithologist who wants to look out at the
poles in the bay. After seeing a single giant tern, and a lot of
sultry birds, we sail back to the mangrove. Between two giant
limestone towers and up the river. Monkeys, eagles, four-eyed,
crabs, bees, kingfishers and fish. I explore the immediate surroundings, and find a crystal clear river just behind the hut, which seems more inviting than the bamboo shed with mandy. Walk and bathe, walk and bathe, and then return to my cabin for lunch. As I sit and wait, I look at the floor of the little cabin. It's 4 centimetres wide bamboo boards, with just as much space. The walls are also of split bamboo, or braided palm leaves. The roof is covered with palm leaves. I feel like a Vietnam movie where a stereotypical prison camp looks like this. It doesn't help much, that my rice with vegetables is served in the hut, with a "YOU - EAT !!!" It's pretty much the only contact I get with my hosts - and their only English. I'm starting to walk out of a very little used path. In many places, I lose track as vegetation and fallen leaves completely hide it. I see butterflies, monkeys, calotes, skinks, lizards, a large all black monitor very close by, a lot of beautiful birds, beautiful moths, brightly coloured beetles. On the trunk of a tree, right where I would put my hand, to emerge from the almost vertical hillside, sits a completely green snake. It has a very wide head and it's not peanuts it has in the cheek pouches! After a few hours, I arrive at a beautiful waterfall, and some beautiful bowl-shaped ponds. It is most reminiscent of giant swallow nests. Leaves that come with the current settle on the edge, and are walled with the minerals in the water. Extremely interesting. Stepping back the same way, as I can't find
any other tracks away from this gorgeous spot. Back in my prison
cell, I drink a litre of water, and then head in the opposite
direction. This time I follow the dirt road. Bump into a couple of
ornithologists from Bangkok and talk with them, until I have to
hurry back in the last daylight. Picking up the headlight, and after
my lonely dinner, I go on a night safari. I see frogs, scorpions, 4
centimetres large white beetles, fireflies, bird lspiders, bull
frogs, leaf frogs, kneeling amnta, rhinoceros beetles up to 6
centimetres, large predator grasshoppers, some reaching 6-7
centimetres, crickets, 8 centimetres large snails and much more. In many places in the primeval forests,
I have come across flowering orchids, and here are of course some. I head on and see many birds, among them paradise birds with their long tails. I end up back at the big blue pool, that is now quite deserted. I take a long swim, go back to my cabin where dinner is waiting, and grab a nap. Being brutally awakened, as my host wants me to fill out a form as well as pay. There is 3½ hours until the taxi (hopefully) pick me up, so I'm off to a new terrain. First through a rubber plantation, past a cleared and burned part of the primeval forest, and then try to find a path into the primeval forest. It is a little thin with paths and tracks, but I then get to squeeze through the dense vegetation. It gets more and more dense. I can't find the hint of path or alternation. The most prevalent growths are barbwire lianas, killer palms, blackberry-like creeping plants, some resembling holly, others resembling pineapple with saw-edged leaves and agaves. The whole filter well together, and added fire-ants + bees. Fighting me in the right compass direction for 2½ hours, I end up on a dirt road. I must soon get used to getting lost in primeval forests! Going straight back to my stream to wash off
blood and sweat. The taxi has arrived, and we start the journey back
to civilization. The first thing I see inside Krabi is a
brand new Ferrari 512. Booker at S / R Guesthouse for 12 kroner.
Nice room, relatively quiet and sharing bath with 3 girls sponsoring
shampoo, washing powder, towel, dinner and party. 22/4. After the morning fruit and coffee, I head over and get my photos. They are nicely developed, but my head is missing on the one, where I ride on an elephant. Since for obvious reasons I have not taken it myself, I check the negative, before I complain. They make some new prints manually, for free of course - and with my head. While waiting for the new prints, I see the local market. Here I buy needles, thread, lighter and elastic to patch my bag, as well as make a new "belly purse". Total price: 3 kroner. After picking up the photos, I take a moped-taxi to the bus terminal. The 45 minutes of waiting, is spend to repair my backpack. Harvest some praise from the local women present. Gets the last seat in the VIP bus to Satun. We drive through rice, rubber and primeval forest. Take a break in Trang, where I see the square, find the toilet and food. While the folk music gently flow from the bus
speakers, we move through the characteristic limestone hills. There
will be a few small showers, the first rain I've seen. The thunder has long rumbled and as I enter my room, it begins to hammer down. Sets me to sew new "belly pouch", finishes, while it stops raining. Going out into town to orientate me, and get some coffee. The city closes almost completely at 19 o'clock. There is a single night market with 15-20 food trucks, that's all. Everyone I meet greets, but I'm also the only stranger in town. Out in the countryside everyone greets, and even in Bangkok, many say hello. When the shops close, mopeds and cars fall
short in the middle of the floor, the television pulls out, the big
shutters to the street are closed, and then there is a homey
atmosphere in the shop. It will be a somewhat dull evening. I have read, that to get to Thale Ban National Park, you need to find a share taxi in front of the Rain Tong Hotel. It turns out to be the one I live in! Finding the right car, we drive down to the square to get more customers, as I will not pay the trip alone (50 or 7 kroner!). We get to the entrance to the park, and I walk down the driveway, which winds through the undergrowth and dense jungle. Had planned 2 nights, but sold out of the park's small bungalows tomorrow. And then, by the way, I'm lucky; the restaurant is open today! It seems pretty desolate, as darkness falls, I'm actually the only human out here. But there are a lot of animals. Here in the middle of the day, there are some staff in the camp area, but in the primeval forest there has not been for a long time. The lady who rents me the bungalow, warns me not to go outside the two marked tracks, that I even get maps on. She speaks pretty good English, as one of the very few. The camp is next to a very large lake, which is completely covered with lotus. Unfortunately, they have bloomed, but then I can get some seeds home. There are several variants of all sizes on the outskirts of the camp, but I want to go out into the jungle. It takes me a while to find the entrance to the tracks, so overgrown they are. It turns out to be a be mosquito soup inside the forest. I sneak barefoot onto a bunch of monkeys, getting so close that I have to take photos. When I open the Velcro to the camera, they run completely off the rails. Screams up and disappears into a 50 meter high tree. There are leaf birds and paradise birds. Suddenly, it sounds like a breeze. Something very big has taken flight. Monitors make a lot of noise, but this was something that was significantly heavier, probably a tapir. I find a armoured centipede, and then another. Puts them together for photo. It's something that fits at least one of them. I also see a huge centipede, some very large beetles, frogs and some giant ants; 2½-3 centimetres. Finds a poisonous mangrove adder and hears hornbilled birds. A single leech has found the old suction hole. Big and mega-big, colourful butterflies, blue and green little birds, all teeming with life. Well out of the jungle, I study the lake shore. Mystical snails the size of a clasped hand, water hens, catfish and masses of skinks. It's starting to rain, so I'm taking a break with coffee. The rain wakes 1000s of tiny little leaf frogs, ox frogs, Ranas, toads and what do I know. The restaurant was supposed to close at 5 pm, but I got the to serve me some cooked rice with soy 16.45. On the way back to my house, I finally see a turtle. Jumps into the swamp to get a good photo. Also see a bunch of very small monkeys. It gets dark and I sit in the house browsing
the photos, while the rain is pouring down. A leach has made a hole
on the side of my knee, and I notice it first, as I have made a big
pool in the middle of the bed (she must have been a virgin!) Out on
the terrace it sounds like someone is passing by, but I should like
it be the only one out here. It turns out to be a big leaf frog,
leaping clashing back and forth. Along with a lot of geckos, a giant
bat and a bunch of little toads, it makes cabbage on the insects
that are attracted to my yard lamp. Go to bed at half-time; it rains
too much for a night safari. Outside the park, I follow the road north and after 3 kilometres I reach the Thondin Cave. Total overgrown path leads to a hole that is 1x½ meters wide. Inside, a total darkened ladder leads down to a narrow ledge. On one hand, there are the most beautiful stalactites and monoliths, some totally covered with large glittering crystals. On the other hand, it seems bottomless, but I can hear the rushing water 10-20 meters down. Carefully walk off the path. Skipping over cracks and crashed parts of the ceiling, crawling under low hanging parts of ceilings and stalactites, clinging to the wall when the shelf is missing. The cave seemed to continue, and it makes the Indiana Jones movie caves seem like children's rooms. Deep inside, the headlights find the biggest toad I've ever seen. I get the feeling, it says to me: "You are far enough inside the cave, and it is dangerous enough soI turn around". Did I really go that far? Finally I get to the exit and, well muddy, I eel out of the earth. I continue out of the trail, passing a bunch of lemurs. These black monkeys with white glasses are shy, but also curious. However, not as curious as the kids who emerge from the Arab village, I now get to. I have become accustomed to everyone shouting hello to me, but here, the interest is overwhelming, also from the adult side. I come to something that with a little imagination can be described as a country road restaurant. Order coffee and ask for Yaroy waterfall. Is told it's 1 kilometre back. Head back, and finds the unmarked path up to the waterfall. Several falls in succession, perhaps totalling 150 meters, but because of the dry season, it is not very impressive or clean. I continue to the Don Bliew waterfall, which should be more impressive in the dry season. Out on the main road again, and being picked up by the first private pick-up. Knocking on the roof, as we pass the sign pointing towards Don Bliew. Begins to trot out of the dirt road. It should be 3 kilometres, but those are the longest kilometres I've experienced. Along the way, I see some quite big beetles sitting drinking sap on a tree. As I get closer, I see one of the very large rhino beetles, down in the gap between the tree's 2 trunks. Finds a stick to entice it with, but then both it and the little beetles are scared off. Finally, I come to Don Bliew. Two falls, one at 1½ the other at 3 meters. Not very clean water, but a bunch of local bath here. Talk to someone studying English, and then head back the long way. Have walked a kilometre before I am offered 1/3 of a moped. We hurry out to the main road, and the first one to come by, offers the back seat of his MC. We drive through small towns, off smaller and larger roads, and end up in front of a grocery store, in a small town. My driver disappears before I can say thank you. It turns out he dropped me off at the bus stop to Hat Yai. Yet another Muslim city, but it is incredible, as the girls flirt. I get a cup of coffee, while I wait 15 minutes on the bus. Runs for 10 minutes, then a sky opens. The rain is pouring down, and had it been a boat we were in, I would be nervous, this is how it falls into the bus. Being put off at the forefront of the city's big night market. Walking through, as I search for a suitable hotel. A bunch of moped-taxi drivers ask where I'm going. I show I want to sleep, and they point in behind me. Relatively cheap but uncommonly worn. Like so many other places missing the toilet seat, where the hell are all those toilet seats gone to? Thai toilets are manufactured by KARAT and the pedal locks are AMERICAN STANDARD. I had probably chosen other names. Going out to find a city map. Tries in a
bookstore, but they only have all of Thailand. Trying someone else
who rings around a bit. After 10 minutes, one arrives with a nice
photocopy. It's a gift to enjoy your stay in Hat Yai. I head back to the centre, where I walk from one covered market to the other. There are also open ones, which are only covered by umbrellas. Common to them is that they are not based on my height. Nevertheless, I am soon quite good at seeing items, looking for holes and nails on the ground, looking up, and keeping the orientation. One had to be a four-eye! Like everywhere else, business owners are mainly of Chinese descent.
I walk through large parts of the city, and in a
hotel area with fashionable shops, I even see tourists, the first in
4-5 days. The markets are closing down and are being taken over by
rats and cockroaches in large numbers. Roll over in bed just passed
midnight. Returning, but still closed. Talk to locals, who say they don't open. Shoppers instead of neighbours, who are flower shops. Walking back to the centre. Have learned to order coffee. Says coffee in Danish, with in Spanish; con, so use my only Thai word: Nid carefully; a little, and then Malaysian Milo; milk. It gives in between a good cup of coffee.
I find my way back to the hotel, take a rest and
a bath, and check out. There are 3 hours to get to the airport, so I
stick to the cooler markets in town. Takes a mini taxi to the
airport and flies to Bangkok. I hate being trapped behind 2 others in the plane, and under no circumstances, will I sit in a smoking section for 11 hours. Tells the lady that there must have been a mistake, and she should rather get it fixed NOW! I get a non-smoking seat, with plenty of legroom. 50 minutes in
Zurich and then home to large-scale lock-down in Denmark.
Fortunately, my bus drives to the Central Station, because I am not
dressed in the Danish weather. Goes straight down the waiting train
and hurries down from Hestetorvet. I didn't get to see Laos this
time, but Thailand was also extremely interesting. |